How to Hand-Sew

One of the most frustrating parts of second-hand shopping is finding that perfect piece that doesn't fit quiiite right. An easy way to fix this is to hand sew. New sewing machines can cost around £100 and can come with a steep learning curve. As a busy uni student, this does not fit into my schedule or budget. Hand-sewing has become my go-to fix for pieces I love but need to alter just a bit. Below are a couple of step-by-step guides to help you tailor your pieces perfectly! All you need is a regular sewing needle, a thread of your choice, and scissors. 

1. Sewing a backstitch. 

    A backstitch reinforces a standard stitch, making your hard work last much longer. Here's how: 

    1. Insert the needle into the fabric where you want to start the stitch

    2. Bring the needle back through the layers of fabric a short distance from the previous stitch

    3. Insert the needle back into the fabric in the middle of the first stitch

    4. Brind the needle up through the fabric the same distance you came forward in creating the first stitch

    5. Continue

2. Sewing a top

    1. The easiest way to do this is to find a top of a similar shape that fits you perfectly. Alternatively, you can take measurements of your bust, torso, and waist, add an extra half inch so it's not too tight, and sew!

    2. Lay the top that fits over the top that does not, turning both inside out.

    3. Cut the top that does not fit approximately 1 inch around the top that does. This is called a seam allowance

    4. Hand sew one inch from the edge of the fabric-- remember to backstitch! 

    5. Once the garment fits how you want, tie off loose threads

    6. Cut off excess seam allowance, turn right side out and Enjoy!

3. Taking in the waist on a pair of trousers

    Unfortunately, it is impossible to hand-sew denim as the material is too thick for a regular sewing needle, but these steps work with most other types of trousers!

    1. Measure the amount to be taken in

    2. Turn the trousers inside out and mark along the waistband the amount to be taken in. Leave a bit of seam allowance

    3. Going a few dozen centimetres down, draw a diagonal line from the mark at the waistband to the edge of the fabric. Leave a bit of seam allowance

    4. Hand sew along the line

    5. Flip the right side out and make sure the waistband seams align

    6. Once they align and the garment is fitted to your liking, tie off loose threads

    6. Flip inside out and cut the seam allowance

    7. Enjoy!

    The best way to shorten hems is with a hemming web or hemming tape. Instructions may vary, but for the most part, all you need is an iron! When tying off a thread, make sure the knot is as close to the stitch as you can get. 

There are many amazing YouTube videos if you need a visual or some more in-depth instruction, but I hope this has provided a good foundation for you to start hand-sewing your garments.